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Shinzo Abe’s Legacy Part 2: A More Comfortable, Confident and Asian Japan

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 24/09/2022 - 2:17am in

Tags 

articles, Politics

Published in Japan Forward 23/9/2022

It was fitting that Shinzo Abe’s death was marked by a day of mourning in India, and that 98-year old Dr. Mahathir Mohamad, Malaysia’s longest serving prime minister, visited Japan to give his condolences to Akie Abe just one week after the terrible event. Japan had visibly become more Asian during the Abe years.

Mahatir visiting Shinzo Abe's widow

Dr. Mahathir visiting Shinzo Abe’s widow

Between 2012 and 2019, the last pre-Covid year, the number of tourists visiting Japan rose from 8.4 million to 32 million. Of those, 78% came from other Asian countries and just 12% from Europe and North America.

The Abe administration’s liberalization of visa requirements set off a tourism boom that added 1% to GDP and, more importantly, redefined the concept of “a foreigner” in the eyes of the public.  Now a Japanese is much more likely to encounter a fellow-Asian than the archetypical American tourist with baseball cap and phrasebook in hand.

Much the same goes for foreign residents of Japan. Numbers increased by 50% over the same period and the proportion of people from other Asian countries is 84%. There are more Nepalese living in Japan than North Americans or Europeans. Most of them speak excellent Japanese. The era of the blonde English language teacher as neighbourhood celebrity is over.

These are megatrends, but they still needed wise political leadership to take root. Already by 2008, the subsidiaries and affiliates of Japanese companies were recording higher revenues in Asia than North America. By 2019, these Asian revenues were equivalent to a fifth of Japanese GDP.

Abe fifth from the left

Abe fifth from the left

Abe strengthened the case for freer trade and reciprocity by swiftly taking over the leadership of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (now known as the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership) after both candidates for the U.S. presidency in 2016, Donald Trump and Hillary Clinton, refused to join.

Originally, the TPP was an American initiative – indeed, Clinton had negotiated the deal as Secretary of State – whereas previous Japanese leaders had been nervous about the reaction to market-opening measures from farmers and other key constituencies.  Abe met the political challenge head-on, judging correctly that he could afford to “spend” his popularity on important strategic goals.

It was quite a contrast from the “trade friction” of the 1980s, when Japan was routinely blasted for protectionist practices and the United States positioned itself as a model free trader.

Abe’s Asian vision reached further than the production bases of major Japanese companies. In a bold conceptual leap, he envisaged a “free and open Indo-Pacific”, countering China’s hegemonic ambitions in East Asia by extending Japan’s range of influence to the Indian subcontinent.

Japan and India do not have strong commercial ties, with the exception of auto maker Suzuki’s joint venture with Maruti, but the strategic fit is perfect. The U.S and Japan alone might struggle to deter Chinese adventurism into the long-term, but bringing the world’s largest democracy, soon to become the world’s largest economy, and also Australia into the Quad, a four-party defensive bloc, is probably the best hope of maintaining the status quo.

Abe's geopolitical legacy - the Quad

Abe’s geopolitical legacy – the Quad

If the Quad takes shape as planned, it could become an Asian equivalent of NATO, fathered by Shinzo Abe. In the words of Dr. Sudeep Kumar, Research Fellow at the Indian Council of World Affairs, Abe “put India into Japan’s strategic horizon via pragmatic and proactive diplomatic ties to maintain peace and economic development in the Indo-Pacific. India lost a true friend with his death.”

BULL MARKET HERO

Abe understood that the project of making Japan a normal nation-state would require a significant step-up in all forms of power – hard power, soft power and economic / financial power. Given such a fundamental and multi-faceted challenge, delays and disappointments were inevitable. Much remains to be done, but the overriding impression of Abe’s stint as prime minister is of a Japan transformed for the better.

Unusually for a political leader, Abe not only took the stock market seriously, but actively encouraged foreigners to invest. “Buy my Abenomics,” he declared after ringing the bell to start the day’s trading on the floor of the New York stock market. Politicians usually keep quiet about the subject because financial markets are inherently unpredictable, and any sunny forecast made could look silly later.

Abe and entourage on Wall Street

Abe and entourage on Wall Street

Abe accepted the risk because Japan’s stock market was in a far from normal state. When Abe chose to run for prime minister in the tail end of 2012, the Nikkei Index of stock prices was no higher than it had been 28 years before. Animal spirits were dead. People were content to hold their wealth in cash.  At least you got your money back, went the thinking.

Almost from the moment that Abe set foot in the kantei, the prime minister’s official residence, the Nikkei Index took off on a bull market run that is still extant today. It was unable to match the red hot performance of Wall Street over the period, but it did comfortably beat Eurozone, UK, Chinese and emerging market stocks. And this was achieved not by frenzied speculation, but by the transformed profit margins of corporate Japan.

More important than the long-awaited recovery in stock market sentiment was the institutional change that the Abe administration encouraged in Japanese finance. The public pension fund went from being a sleepy backwater that held Japanese government bonds exclusively and unquestioningly to a highly professional outfit that invests in a wide range of products and strategies, as befits the world’s largest pension fund.

Investing institutions were asked to sign up to stewardship codes and exercise governance over listed companies. The companies themselves became much more transparent and sensitive to the interests of shareholders. Corporate actions – spin-offs, mergers, management buyouts and even take-over battles between Japanese companies –  became common.

A surge of new listings occurred, many featuring companies using the internet in innovative ways. There are now more Japanese companies listed in Tokyo than there are American companies listed on the New York Stock exchange or NASDAQ.

Memories of 2012 and the Nikkei Index at 8,600 have faded like a bad dream.

The Nikkei in the doldrums before Abe took over

The Nikkei in the doldrums before Abe took over

BRIGHTER SKIES

Social moods are always hard to capture. One macabre but evocative indicator is the number of suicides. As in many countries, suicide is an overwhelmingly male (70%) phenomenon in Japan. There have been three surges during the past 70 years.

The victims of the first surge, which happened in the immediate post-war period, were mainly disoriented people in their twenties and thirties. The second surge, in the mid-1980s, took the lives of middle-aged men. The dizzying ascent of the yen, forced on Japan by the United States, had led to a chain of bankruptcies in small manufacturing businesses.

That was a harbinger of much worse to come. The last surge, starting in the late 1990s, took the annual death toll from 20,000 to an all-time high of 32,000 in just a few years. Again, the key variable was suicides of middle-aged males. The economic background was of banking crisis, sinking real estate values, and corporate restructuring. Deflation had become a psychological illness.

The number of suicides gradually declined in the following years, in line with the limited improvement in economic conditions. Yet, when Abe took over as prime minister in late 2012, the annual toll was still running at 27,800, far above anything seen before the late 1990s.

When he stepped down because of ill health in 2020, the latest annual report revealed that the entire surge had been reversed. In fact, the total of 20,169 suicides was the lowest since the current statistical method was introduced in 1978.

Something intangible but vitally important had changed for the better.

THE WISDOM OF THE LEOPARD

So many changes took place under Abe that it is impossible to cite them all.

From breaking the taboo on sales of military hardware to launching a “reform of working practices” that could be the key to having more women in positions of responsibility.

From easing the path to Japanese citizenship for foreigners to developing a 10 year space plan for national security purposes.

From requiring accountability from the Bank of Japan to increasing the labour force by 5 million despite an ageing and shrinking population.

Many of these are works in progress, but the vital groundwork has been laid.

Abe was able to make so much happen because he understood how power is exercised in Japan. Perhaps it was in his DNA: his father was a political heavyweight widely tipped as a future premier until his untimely death, and Abe’s grandfather and great uncle were both prime ministers in the 1960s. Perhaps he learnt lessons from his brief, failed stint in power in 2007/8, when his offering to the public was dull and backward-looking.

Whatever the cause, when Abe became Japan’s prime minister for the second time in 2012, he was a different man and a different politician, espousing a brand of intelligent conservatism reminiscent of Tancredi’s famous words in di Lampedusa’s great novel The Leopard.

“If we want things to stay as they are, everything will have to change.”

Alain Delon as Tancredi and Claudia Cardinale as Angelica in Visconti's movie of The Leopard

Alain Delon as Tancredi and Claudia Cardinale as Angelica in Visconti’s movie of The Leopard

To that end, he reformed the power structure itself, boosting the status of the Prime Minister’s Office and bypassing the bureaucracy if necessary. At the same time, he was careful not to alienate powerful ministries. As the hapless Democratic Party of Japan found out during its brief tenure in government from 2009 to 2012, nothing is achievable without the co-operation of the bureaucracy.

Shinzo Abe has left the stage, but he leaves behind a rich legacy of policy, a model example of quiet, effective leadership and a “normalizing” Japan that has left the traumas of the twentieth century behind and is steering its own course in the world.

Abefuneral

R.I.P.

 

Bopping and Bathing in Beppu

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 17/09/2022 - 6:48am in

Published in Nikkei Asia 9/9/2022

BEPPU, Japan — Ichiro is the big boss around here.  Brought up in the hot springs mecca of Beppu, on the Japanese island of Kyushu, he has never left his hometown. He has his pick of the local females and at mealtimes his favorite food is brought to him without fail.

Right now, he is gazing at me with a 1,000-meter stare, his mouth hanging slightly open in a cynical grin. “Who the hell you do you think you are?” he seems to be saying. I fix him with my hardest, most Clint Eastwood-like squint but, not being a 5-meter Asian crocodile, I quickly lose the staring contest.

Altogether, there are over 40 alligators and crocodiles residing in the Oniyama jigoku (“Devil Mountain Hell”). This venerable tourist attraction is an adjunct to the Oniyama Hotel, a large hot spring hotel with several sizeable baths, some in the open air.

Strictly speaking, Ichiro should be called Ichiro 2 since he took on the name of an illustrious predecessor, rather as Kabuki actors and other exponents of Japanese traditional arts sometimes do. Ichiro 1, whose skin hangs from the wall of the information room, started his career in 1923 and lived to the ripe old age of 72. At 7 meters in length, he would have made his successor look scrawny.

Dinner time!

Dinner time!

There are other “hells” to sample in the hot springs area of Beppu, some offering eggs and cakes cooked in the scalding water. I visited all eight of them and have the stamps on my pamphlet to prove it, but the Oniyama reptile garden is by far the best.

Once upon a time Beppu was an international destination, with cruise ships docking on their way to Yokohama. In 1935, Beppu was really buzzing, with some 6,500 foreigners staying in standard hotels and ryokans (Japanese-style hotels) and more than half a million people using the railway station.

Among the famous visitors over the years were Charlie Chaplin, Babe Ruth, George Bernard Shaw, the Vienna Boys’ Choir, Helen Keller, the blind and deaf American disability rights activist, and James Bond.

Yes, Ian Fleming, 007’s creator, stopped off in Beppu when conducting research for You Only Live Twice. In the novel, he has Bond enjoy a meal of fugu (blowfish) with Japanese spy chief Tiger Tanaka and tour the hells, which he found satisfyingly sinister — “each bubbling, burping nest of volcanic fumaroles was more horrific than the last.”

At the "Lake of Blood" hell

At the “Lake of Blood” hell

There are two important figures behind the branding of Beppu as a tourist destination. The first is the 13th century itinerant monk, Ippen. Statues and images of him are everywhere in Beppu’s Kannawa hot springs district.

Ippen appears  to have been something of a showman, staging ecstatic religious ceremonies with music, dance and groups of nuns stripping off. According to the legend, he arrived in what is now Beppu and encouraged the local people not to fear the geysers, which were considered a curse on the land, but to develop them into health-enhancing hot springs.

Images of Ippen are everywhere

Images of Ippen are everywhere

The second influencer was a remarkable entrepreneur called Kumahachi Aburaya who was born before the Meiji Restoration of 1868, which thrust Japan into the modern world, and passed away in 1935. Aburaya made a fortune speculating in the Osaka rice market, then lost every yen in the aftermath of the Sino-Japanese war of 1894-1895. Broke at the age of 35, he spent several years wandering in the United States, then returned to Japan and settled in Beppu.

Sensing the market potential, he opened the Kamenoi Ryokan in 1911. Now called the Kamenoi Hotel, it still exists. Aburaya also set up a tourist bus company, complete with young women in uniforms as tour guides.

A master of public relations, he came up with this killer slogan: “For mountains, it’s Fuji; for the sea, it’s the Inland Sea; for hot springs, it’s Beppu.” The man born in the still-feudal mid-19th century had anticipated the era of mass tourism.

During the post-war American occupation of Japan, there was a strong U.S. military presence in Beppu. Japanese jazz legend Toshiko Akiyoshi got her start hammering out blues and bop in the rough-and-tumble bars of Beppu — quite a contrast to the classical exercises the young girl had been accustomed to in her comfortable home in colonial Manchuria.

When Fleming showed up in 1962 with journalist friends Richard Hughes (“Dikko Henderson” in the novel and film) and Torajiro Saito (“Tiger Tanaka”), Beppu was in its prime, attracting 5 million visitors a year. The absolute peak was marked in 1973, when 13 million people – the equivalent of more than 10% of the Japanese population — swarmed to Beppu, a city of 130,000 inhabitants.

Bond in Kyushu

Bond in Kyushu

The growth could not last, and it did not. Overseas holidays became popular and attractions like Tokyo Disneyland offered stiff competition. Yet, Beppu’s popularity remained at a high level throughout the 1970s and 1980s.

One crucial element in the prosperity of Beppu and other resort towns was the custom of blue chip companies taking large numbers of employees on short holidays during which they would eat and drink to excess and let their hair down in all sorts of ways. Hot springs were a favorite destination, and there was a boom in the construction of hotels that could cope with sudden influxes of squadrons of office workers. It took the bursting of Japan’s economic bubble in the 1990s to end that.

Many resort towns never really recovered. Beppu has. Tourism — mostly domestic at the moment — continues. The company trip is no longer a thing, but now we have offsite meetings and “workations,” which are smaller scale, but not very different. More to the point, Aburaya’s slogan is still effective. Japanese people love hot spring baths, and Beppu remains a go-to location.

I can testify that taking a late night bath under the stars at the Oniyama Hotel makes a good day perfect. When Japan finally reopens to foreign tourism after the COVID-19 pandemic, expect a flood of Asian tourists keen to bask in the waters at a bargain price, thanks to the weak yen.

New developments are underway too. I heard good reports about Beppu’s Asia Pacific University, an international branch of Kyoto’s Ritsumeikan University. The student body and faculty are 50% foreign, and local observers are impressed by the quality of both.

Oita Airport is a 30-minute drive away, with the flight to Tokyo taking 90 minutes. One businessman I met spends three days a week in Tokyo and the rest in Beppu, his hometown. I can understand that. The food is cheaper and probably better. I had my doubts about eating Italian in Beppu, but the food at Otto e Sette, ingredients all locally sourced, was superb. The owner-chef, who has received numerous awards, uses vitamin-rich hot spring water in his cooking.

The family-run Ono eaterie, also in the Kannawa district, offers a contrasting approach, all bustle and energy. Nominally a yakitori (roast chicken on skewers) joint, it offers most of the dishes you would expect in an izakaya (the Japanese equivalent of a tapas bar).

If you want a more sophisticated meditative experience, you can always spend an afternoon or longer in Yufuin, a greener, cooler, quieter place half an hour away by car. Considered the Kyushu equivalent of Karuizawa, the summer getaway for wealthy Tokyoites, it attracts film and art world types.

Some seaside towns in Britain are amongst the most deprived areas in the country. Everyone has left who has the ability to do so. Beppu is not like that at all. The era of corporate tourism may be gone for good and some of the hells underwhelming compared to modern day attractions. Nonetheless, the regional pride of the inhabitants is palpable. They strongly believe their town is a great place to live. While that remains the case, it will be.

Just ask Ichiro

Satisfied smile

Satisfaction guaranteed

Shinzo Abe’s Legacy Part 1: Normalizing Japan

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 10/09/2022 - 3:53pm in

Published in Japan Forward  9/9/2022

It’s still hard to process the horrific assassination of Japan’s most consequential politician of the last sixty years.

Shinzo Abe is literally irreplaceable. At the age of 68, relatively young for a seasoned politician, he would have been expected to cast a giant shadow on Japanese politics for at least another ten years. The killer has done immense damage to Japan as there is no other politician with equivalent experience, credibility and vision.

Supposedly, the alleged perpetrator held a grudge against the Unification Church, his “Moonie” mother having donated all her wealth to the cult and then gone bankrupt. Abe, like several other politicians in Japan and America, maintained cordial relations with the UC (Unification Church) and its associated concerns.

Whether there was anything really substantial to the relationship in the twentieth first century is uncertain, but it was enough for Abe to be targeted by a cowardly murderer.

Abe’s project was to make Japan a “normal country”. Several other politicians have come up with more grandiose plans – one thinks of Ichiro Ozawa’s Blueprint for a New Japan, published in 1993 – but none chalked up any achievements worthy of the name.

Abe with President Obama at Jiro's sushi restaurant

Abe with President Obama at Jiro’s sushi restaurant

Abe hit the ground running when he won an electoral landslide at the end of 2012 and initiated far-reaching change in institutions, economic policy, geopolitical settings and, not least, the relationship of political leaders to Japan’s powerful bureaucracy.

Thankfully, his initiatives are unlikely to be reversed. Japan will not go back to the state of paralysis which reigned in 2010-12, when the Nikkei Index sat below 10,000, corporate Japan was largely unprofitable and the number of suicides was 50% higher than now.

By the bitterest of historical ironies, one such transformative reform relates indirectly to the circumstances of Abe’s death. During the Cold War, part of Japan’s “abnormality” was that, being nominally a pacifist nation that had outsourced its own security to the United States, it had no need of a functioning secret service.

Even after the Cold War was over, the political and economic fragility of the “lost decades” prevented any progress being made. Rightly, Abe made reform a priority of his premiership, even at the cost of declining approval ratings and noisy demonstrations around the Diet.

Abe showed political courage in facing down the taunts of angry pacifists

Abe showed political courage in facing down the taunts of angry pacifists

In his fascinating book Special Duty: A History of the Japanese Intelligence Community Professor Richard Samuels of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology puts it like this –

“For decades after the war, Japan had no centralized intelligence capacity… It was not until Prime Minister Abe’s reengineering project – including creation of a centralized NSC (National Security Council) in 2013 and its intelligence co-ordinating unit, the National Security Secretariat – that the government acted on its oft-stated determination to upgrade Japan’s intelligence capacity”

Samuels recounts how then-Prime Minister Yasuhiro Nakasone tried to do something similar in the early 1980s but failed to gather enough support. It is highly likely that the United States would have disapproved of Japan, which was essentially an American dependency at that time, developing an independent capability.

"Ron and Yasu" at Camp David in 1986

“Ron and Yasu” at Camp David in 1986

If no professionals are available, gifted or not so gifted amateurs take the stage. What might be broadly termed intelligence work was carried out by a variety of actors, including trading house personnel, think tankers, journalists and less respectable characters from the dark side of Japanese society, such as the kuromaku, the black curtain men.

These behind the scenes power-brokers and fixers take their name from the unseen manipulators of the kabuki theatre. American intelligence appears to have condoned or at least tolerated their activities. Indeed, some of the key actors had been freed from detention in the Occupation period because of their influence and ability to get things done.

It is notable that several major players had strong connections to Korea. In his book Yakuza to Kisen ga Tsukutta Daikankoku (“How Yakuza and Courtesans Created Korea”) former public security official Mitsuhiro Suganuma credits famed fixer Yoshio Kodama for facilitating the Korea-Japan Treaty of 1965 that established diplomatic relations.

Suganuma goes on to claim that the relationship between the two countries has deteriorated today because there are no longer any kuromaku on either side to cut the necessary deals.

Such was Japan’s destiny. It could never have been a non-aligned or neutral actor, despite the sympathies of its left-wing intelligentsia. It was fated to be a passive, but crucial participant on the American side of a Cold War in which there were no rules.

Another unofficial participant in the Cold War was the Reverend Moon’s Unification Church. Media accounts tend to concentrate on its mass weddings and ruthless money-making practices. In reality, it has always been a highly political organization as well, being a willing instrument of the KCIA (Korean Central Intelligence Agency), which itself was linked to the American CIA.

Moon with Mikhail Gorbachev

Moon with Mikhail and Raisa Gorbachev

The KCIA and the UC were as ‘close as lips and teeth’, as the saying goes, with several “former” KCIA and military personnel occupying important positions in Moon’s organization. Writing in 1991, UC expert Dr. Jeffrey Bale described how in the 1960s, when President Park Chung-hee’s regime regarded many churches with suspicion, Moon was given tax-free charitable status and his first business venture was awarded contracts to produce parts for anti-aircraft guns, grenade launchers and other military hardware at favourable prices.

Clear confirmation of the relationship came later with the U.S. Congressional investigation into the “Koreagate” influence-peddling scandal which snared ten Democratic congressmen in 1977. The Fraser Report on the issue stated that there was ‘a great deal of independent corroboration for the suggestion in [U.S.] intelligence reports that Kim Jong-Pil  (founder of the KCIA) and the Moon organization carried on a mutually supportive relationship, as well as for the statement that Kim used the UC for political purposes… [Moon is] the key figure in an international network of [front] organizations engaged in economic and political as well as religious activities.’

From the point of view of the KCIA, Moon’s fervent anticommunism – inherent to his bizarre eschatological ideas –  made the cult a perfect fit and a convenient front for political organizations and activities.

It was for the same reason that in the late 1960s Shinzo Abe’s grandfather, former prime minister Nobusuke Kishi, supported the growth of the UC’s Japan branch from a tiny sect to a powerful operation, seeing it as a fitting counterbalance to Japan’s increasingly militant left of the time.

In a sense, this was quite perceptive as political and religious cultists have much in common. Several observers of the UC have noted the parallels with techniques utilized by authoritarian Marxist-Leninist parties, to the extent that the Moon’s followers have been called “heavenly communists.”

After discussions with politicians and kuromaku, Moon established the International Front for Victory over Communism in both South Korea and Japan, where it was known as the Kokusai Shokyo Rengo and attracted many tens of thousands of conservatives worried about their country’s loss of agency in a dangerous region of a dangerous world.

At the jam-packed inaugural event at the Budokan, a congratulatory bouquet was sent by Prime Minister Eisaku Sato, recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize and brother of Nobusuke Kishi.

Event at the Budokan in 1970

Gathering at the Budokan in 1970

Indeed, there was much to trouble the Japanese right, from the violent escapades of home-grown revolutionaries to America’s defeat in Vietnam and opening to communist China. What could be done about it? Officially, nothing.

Samuels writes as follows – “The Asia-Pacific War not only destroyed much of Japan physically but also cast a shroud on the legitimacy of its national security enterprise… Repeated leaks to Soviet, Chinese and North Korean agents went largely unpunished and led the United States to withhold information from its Japanese ally.”

After the Abe reforms, that is no longer the case.

The past, as they say, is a different country. Today the Cold War is material for history books. Although the UC and its media outlets remain influential on the right of the political spectrum, Moon himself junked his anticommunism before he died in 2012, setting up businesses in North Korea, where he was born, and receiving a posthumous honour from Kim Jong-Un.

Moon with North Korean leader Kim Il-sun in 1991

Moon with North Korean leader Kim Il-Sun in 1991

Whether UC still works hand in glove with South Korean intelligence is unknown – but given the cult’s North Korean connection, it would come as no surprise. Indeed, the existence of this “unofficial” direct channel to the Pyongyang regime could well have been the key reason why important Japanese politicians maintained cordial relations with UC into the new century.

Over time, the Unification Church has become a Frankenstein’s monster, attracting adherents from the ever-increasing number of lonely, disconnected people yearning to be told what to do with their lives.

Moon’s theology is far from sympathetic to Japan, which is considered the “Eve” country that copulated with Lucifer. As a result, it must make financial restitution to the pure, upstanding “Adam” country of Korea, a process that UC facilitates by guilt-tripping wealthy Japanese members and sending the proceeds to home-base in Seoul.

China has brutally suppressed the Falun Gong which it considers a threat to Communist Party control, validating Kishi’s intuition that cults and communism are natural rivals. Even some Western countries, such as Germany, have taken a tough anti-cult stance, but such measures are hard to reconcile with constitutional protections of freedom of worship. Likewise, people have the right to donate as much of their money as they want to whoever they want.

Toleration of cults, as long as their actions are legal, is part of the price of living in a society that values personal responsibility. And cults that survive long enough are no longer called cults but religions.

Abe with Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi

Abe with Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi in 2015

Meanwhile, Japan’s journey to “normality” – which includes agency in foreign policy, pride in cultural heritage and possession of similar intelligence resources to other large democracies –  continues. Shinzo Abe was killed when he had so much more to contribute, but it is to be hoped that his legacy will be honoured and extended.

Herzog’s Onoda: The Twilight World

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 13/08/2022 - 3:17pm in

Published in Japan Forward 03/08/2022

Werner Herzog is one of the great film directors of our time. His golden period was in the 1970s and early 1980s when he created such dark masterpieces as Aguirre, the Wrath of God (1972), Nosferatu the Vampyre (1979) and Fitzcarraldo (1982), all featuring the unsettling presence of German actor, Klaus Kinski.

Kinski attacks Herzog during filming of "Aguirre"

Kinski attacks Herzog during the filming of “Aguirre”

Resident in the United States for many years, Herzog has also directed dozens of documentaries and many operas and has appeared as a German-accented  villain in Jack Reacher (2012) and in a Star Wars TV spinoff. In 2008, he made the highly entertaining Bad Lieutenant, set in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina and starring a rampant Nicholas Cage.

Now, at the ripe old age of 79, Herzog has published his first novel. It is as idiosyncratic as you would expect. Over 132 slim pages, he tells the story of Hiroo Onoda, the Japanese soldier who refused to accept that World War 2 was over and continued patrolling a mountainous island in the Philippines until 1974.

It's a novel, remember

Herzog appears to have harboured an obsession with Onoda for a long time. In the late 1990s, when he was in Tokyo to direct an operatic version of Chushingura, the tale of the 47 heroic samurai, he actually met Onoda. In fact, Herzog claims that he declined an invitation from the Emperor, possibly the worst faux pas it is possible to make in Japan, in order to meet Onoda.

Together the two men visited Yasukuni Shrine, where Onoda, long considered legally dead, had been enshrined along with the other 2.5 million people, stretching back to the mid-nineteenth century, who had given their lives for the fatherland.

Herzog was aware that the shrine was controversial, but accepted the invitation, thinking “who am I anyway to allow myself the luxury of such reservations, coming as I do from a country that has brought such horrors on other countries and peoples.”

Onoda left the jungle in 1974

Onoda left the jungle in 1974

At the shrine, a priest produced a flat carton containing the tattered remains of the uniform that Onoda had worn for thirty years in the Philippine jungle. As Herzog writes, “Onoda asked the abbot if he would let me take the uniform in my hands. I bowed, and the abbot laid it in my formally outstretched arms. The abbot exchanged a few words with Onoda and encouraged me to unfold the uniform and to feel it. I did so with extreme care.”

Did any of this actually happen? The book, remember, is a novel – and Herzog is known for his concept of “ecstatic truth” which can be reached “only through fabrication and imagination and stylization.” He cares very little for “the truth of accountants,” meaning facts. Onoda died in 2014 at the age of 91. Whatever happened between the two men, if anything, is transmitted to us via the consciousness of Herzog.

The story proceeds through a series of short, strongly visual episodes which describe the amazing measures Onoda employed in order to evade capture. He and his two comrades would walk backwards for considerable distances to confuse pursuers. Once, his leafy camouflage was so effective that a Philippine soldier on a march through the jungle stepped on his toe. But Herzog’s main interest is in Onoda’s mind, his “fever dreams”, and the new reality he creates through sheer force of will.

Crickets scream at the cosmos. Among the terrors of night was a horse with glowing eyes smoking cigars… The jungle bends and stretches like caterpillars walking, uphill and down. The heron when cornered will attack the eyes of its pursuers.  A crocodile ate a countess…

Needless to say, there is a lot of Herzog in Herzog’s Onoda, but then there is a lot of Herzog in all the obsessional characters that people his best films. Even the protagonist of the documentary Grizzly Man (2005), an American hippie who treats grizzly bears in the wild like cuddly pets, has a kind of crazed nobility. The reality that he has constructed is fragile – but he knows that and is willing to accept the horrific consequences.

Indeed, obsession and refusal to kowtow to humdrum reality are key elements in Herzog’s own film-making process, as demonstrated by his greatest work, Fitzcarraldo.  The story is of an opera-loving adventurer living in the north of Peru during the short-lived rubber boom of the early twentieth century.

Fitzcarraldo, as the Irish protagonist is known, resolves to build an opera house in the small town of Iquitos in the Amazon basin and invite the great tenor Enrico Caruso to perform. In order to raise capital for the project, he attempts to procure rubber from an unexploited and highly inaccessible area of the jungle. That requires transferring a 3-storey 300 ton ship from one river system to another by hauling it over a hill.

Lifting the riverboat

Lifting the riverboat

Herzog could have filmed the whole movie in Iquitos and used modern technology and clever camerawork to simulate the ship being lifted over a hill. Instead, he chose to film in the jungle and operated a mechanical pulley and winch system that could have been used in the early years of the century.

The Burden of Dreams (1982), Les Blank’s documentary about the making of the film, shows the engineer responsible quitting on the grounds that there was only a 30% chance of success and that five or six of the staff, all local tribespeople, might die.

In the end, there were no fatalities during that mud-spattered battle to defy the force of gravity, but during the four years spent making the film people died in light aircraft accidents and limbs were amputated because of snakebites.

Herzog had other troubles too. Originally, the main character was to be played by Jason Robards, but the America actor came down with amoebic dysentery after 40% of his scenes had already been shot. Mick Jagger had been cast as Fitzcarraldo’s sidekick, but his scenes – which are surprisingly convincing – had to be removed too.

Jagger with Robards

Jagger with Robards

When Herzog flew back to Germany to explain the situation to his backers, he was asked whether it was really worth reshooting all these sequences. His reply: “if I don’t, I would be a man without dreams.” The implication was that life without dreams, even absurd or dangerous “fever dreams”, was hardly worth living. In effect, Herzog himself became Fitzcarraldo.

Both triumphed in their own way. Fitzcarraldo ends up welcoming a boatful of opera stars, including the great Caruso, to a concert hall in a small town in north Peru. The film Fitzcarraldo was chosen by Akira Kurosawa as one of his top one hundred movies and has been garlanded with praise and awards.

Even some of the setbacks turned out to be beneficial. Kinski’s intense performance was far superior to Robards’ low-key Hollywood approach.

The extraordinary Klaus Kinski as Fitzcarraldo

The extraordinary Klaus Kinski as Fitzcarraldo

If a film brought out Herzog’s inner Fitzcarraldo, the novel brings out his inner Onoda. “Onoda and I straightaway struck up a relationship,” he writes. “We found much common ground in our conversation because I had worked under difficult conditions in the jungle myself.” Herzog feared the jungle, but was also fascinated by it. In later life, he would return to the Amazonian jungle and hold film school classes there!

The conditions of war and contemporary political debate held no interest for him. In his book, he states baldly that there are no reliable numbers of the Philippine soldiers and civilians who may have died in clashes with Onoda’s three man unit. For this was no game of hide and seek. Onoda considered himself to be a guerrilla fighting behind enemy lines. Indeed, his two comrades were both shot dead in firefights.

Ready to accept the surrender order from his long-retired senior officer

From Arthur Harari’s film

Apart from Herzog’s novel, last year a young French director, Arthur Harari, released an enthralling cinematic version of the Onoda story called “Onoda: 10,000 Nights in the Jungle.” The fascination is the same. In effect, Onoda rejected the accountant’s version of reality and opted for the ecstatic kind. He constructed a dream and lived inside it for thirty years.

That feat of extreme imagining seems to stand apart from the context of Japan’s lost war, now fading into the history books, and has become an inspiration to creative spirits, especially filmmakers.

Laugh and Live: A Barbarian on Japan’s Art Island

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 23/07/2022 - 7:02am in

Tags 

articles, culture

Published in Nikkei Asia 13/ 7/2022

The first thing I see on disembarking from the ferry is a giant polka-dotted pumpkin sitting on the dockside.

“That’s an iconic artwork,” says my companion, browsing the guidebook. “People come from all over the world to see it.”

“It looks more like a piece of scenery from Sesame Street.”

“At least it makes you think. That’s the whole idea.”

"Where's Cookie Monster?" Yayoi Kusama's red pumpkin

“Where’s Cookie Monster?” Yayoi Kusama’s red pumpkin (photo: NW)

All it makes me think is that contemporary art is full of hype and blather. Yet, I’m willing to accept that the fault lies with me. I’ve come all the way to Naoshima, Japan’s art-island, to have my prejudices confirmed or disproved by concentrated exposure to the subject.

Naoshima is the brainchild of the late Tetsuhiko Fukutake, founder of Benesse Holdings, an education and publishing company.  A man ahead of his time, Fukutake came up with the word “benesse” to signify the well-being that he wanted to promote through his business and cultural activities.

Set in the Inland Sea, the island is a twenty minute boat journey from the mainland of Okayama Prefecture. The northern part is dominated by a copper-smelter operated by Mitsubishi Materials. Turning the southern part into an art site was an extraordinarily ambitious, multi-decade project.

Once a dentist's clinic...

Once a dentist’s clinic…

A bus takes us up the winding road to the isolated, super-luxury Benesse House Hotel which contains the Benesse House Museum. On its walls, I spy a Hockney and a Warhol which are pleasant, but unmemorable. More puzzling is a series of almost identical black-and-white photos of shorelines by Hiroshi Sugimoto.

Hiroshi Sugimoto's shoreline photos (photo by NW)

Hiroshi Sugimoto’s shoreline photos (photo by NW)

“He’s interrogating the meaning of the sea,” says my companion, reading from the explanation on the wall.

“The guy went to beaches all over the world to take these photos, and they all look the same?”

“The sea is the sea.”

Unable to argue with that, I move on to the next artwork, which is “Three Chattering Men” by Jonathon Borofsky*. It consists of three tall metallic figures with jaws that go up and down while they utter the words “chatter, chatter, chatter.” From time to time, they burst into brief snatches of song.

“How annoying is that! It must drive the people who work here around the bend. No, don’t tell me. It’s supposed to be annoying, right?”

A smug nod from my companion. The next chamber is where my resistance starts to crumble.  The piece, by Bruce Nauman, is a tower of neon signs that flash out an apparently random sequence of three word messages, all ending with “and live” or “and die”.

LAUGH AND DIE / SCREAM AND LIVE / EAT AND DIE / FAIL AND LIVE / PAY AND DIE

I sit in front of the display for some fifteen minutes, semi-mesmerized. The effect is like a high-speed fortune-telling device. Except these are not potential futures, but certainties. All will happen to everybody, one way or the other.

We walk along the beach towards the Lee Ufan Museum which, we are assured, is a kilometre further along the coast. Except that after walking back and forth for a considerable time we see nothing resembling a museum. What we do see is a large field with a couple of huge boulders in it.

“Are those works of art?” I muse. “Or are they just random rocks?”

“They could be both,” says my companion, unconvincingly. “Maybe it’s an open-air museum.”

We approach the rocks and study them carefully, but end up none the wiser. We are on the point of giving up when a group of art-lovers emerges from the side of a large green hillock. The hillock, it turns out, is a vegetation-covered bank behind and below which hides the bunker-like Lee Ufan Museum.

Like many of the art-related buildings on Naoshima, it was designed by the brutalist architect Tadao Ando, who was part of the art island project right from the start. Lee Ufan’s stone and steel objects do nothing for me, but the museum itself is a remarkable structure, using natural light to illuminate the exhibits.

A ten minute walk away is the Chichu Museum. Again, Ando’s building is largely underground, yet quite literally casts new light on the artworks. I found Walter de Maria’s cathedral-like installation pompous and unpleasant, but the setting of five of Monet’s waterlily paintings is the highlight of the whole Naoshima experience. There is no question that ex-boxer Ando’s creativity has significantly heightened the impact of Monet’s genius.

Inside Taro Ando's self-designed museum on Naoshima

Inside Tadao Ando’s self-designed museum on Naoshima (photo: NW)

Next morning we take a ferry to Teshima, a larger island which suffered for decades from illegal dumping of industrial waste. Teshima Art Museum, twenty minutes from the port by electric bike, houses a single artwork –  “Matrix” by artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa, winner of the Pritzker prize in 2010.

Or perhaps it would be more accurate to say that the artwork is the museum itself, including its backdrop of terraced paddies – restored for the project – drowsing in the sunshine.

We take a looping path past the flying saucer-like café and through a grove ringing with birdsong. Then it’s shoes off to enter a giant egg-shaped structure with two large oval apertures open to the elements. Inside, there are no pillars or walls, just curved surfaces.

The view from inside the Teshima Museum

The view from inside the Teshima Museum

It takes a while to figure out what’s going on. Dribbles of water emerge from holes in the ground, scoot across the super-smooth floor, make strange shapes, merge with other dribbles to form streams and pools. It’s a slow, engrossing process

“I get it,” I whisper to my companion. “This is the primeval soup from which all life emerges.”

“Maybe so, but watch where you’re putting those big feet!”

“Damn!” It’s too late. Before I know it, I’m hopping around in a mini-lake and my socks are sodden.

“Looks like you just delayed life on earth by fifty trillion years,” my companion smirks.

What can I say but “sorry”.

We whizz down the mountain to the Yokoo House, a venerable residence of stone and charred cypress blocks that has been repurposed as a gallery.  On display is the distinctive iconography of Pop Artist Tadanori Yokoo, featuring the seven gods of good luck, Yukio Mishima, pyramids, erotic woodblock prints, and pastiches of movie scenes and famous paintings.

There is also a mysterious circular tower to explore, and a bright red rock garden containing a golden stork and real carp swimming in a psychedelic pond. The effect is like wandering through one of Yokoo’s dreams.

 NW)

Tadanori Yokoo’s psychedelic garden (photo: NW)

The pamphlet praises the two toilets that Yokoo has designed for the house. Having been too busy examining artworks to attend to the usual necessities, I decide to pay a visit to a Yokoo toilet and kill two birds with one stone.

The interior is indeed glorious with lavish fittings and a throne-like seat, but no matter how hard I try, I can’t get the flush to work. Much to my mortification, I’m forced to leave behind a sizeable memento of my visit.

“You took a long time,” said my companion.

“I was interrogating the distinction between art and function.”

“At least it made you think.”

Probably the next visitor too, I reckon.

There was much else to intrigue and delight on the art island tour. To name a few favourites, there was the Tadao Ando museum, the Art House experiments in Naoshima’s Honmura district and Hiroshi Senju’s waterfall paintings at Ishibashi.

At the ferry terminal

At the ferry terminal (photo: NW)

Have I been converted to the cause of contemporary art? Not entirely. I’m never going to be reconciled to that polka-dotted pumpkin, and there were other works that struck me as empty and pretentious. But I plan to be back some time for a second helping. The setting is so magical that even getting annoyed is enjoyable

Weeks later, I still hear the chattering men* going “chatter, chatter” in elevators and cafés. Sometimes I close my eyes and see neon signs flashing.

TOUCH AND LIVE / EAT AND DIE / PLAY AND LIVE / RAGE AND DIE / KISS AND LIVE

 

*it seems that the “Three Chattering Men” exhibit has been removed since my visit.

Notes From the Quarantine Zone: Who Needs Kishida’s Harsher Border Measures?

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 08/02/2022 - 3:32pm in

Tags 

articles, Politics

Published in Japan Forward 06/02/2022

Apa Hotel (Always Pleasant Amenities) is an impressive outfit. Its tally of over 100,000 rentable rooms makes it by far Japan’s largest hotel chain. Female CEO Fumiko Motoya often appears on TV and is well known for her right-wing views and spectacular hats.

I write these words from the Apa Yokohama Bay Tower which has 2,300 rooms. Mine is tiny – just 11 square metres – but the use of space is highly efficient and the tech is first class.

In normal times, I would recommend it to anyone wanting a cheap, comfy base for a few days of sight-seeing or business activities in the area, especially as it boasts a large hot-spring bath, a gym and several restaurants.

Fumiko Motoya enjoying "Apa CEO curry".

Fumiko Motoya enjoying “Apa CEO curry”

Unfortunately, these are not normal times and I will not be making use of the excellent facilities. Like all the other “guests” of this otherwise empty hotel, I was brought here on a bus from nearby Haneda Airport and am to be confined to my room for six days. We are undergoing quarantine, a much stricter version than the sensible “isolate at home” type I experienced when entering Japan last October.

So what’s the new regime like? First and foremost, alcohol is banned. Fresh air and direct sunlight, those other great remedies for jetlag, are also unavailable as the windows are sealed. Exercise is out of the question. You either sit at the desk or lie on the bed or squat in the bathtub. There are no other possibilities.

As for food, it must be at room temperature like the cold bentos (lunch boxes) that we collect – fully masked, of course – from our outside door-knobs three times a day. You can order a delivery meal, but explicitly forbidden are pizza, ramen, gyudon, sandwiches, sushi, and other hot or chilled foods.

Dangling dinner

Dangling dinner

Don’t bother trying to smuggle in a bottle of champagne and a cordon bleu meal. A notice warns that all deliveries will be checked by quarantine officers stationed at the hotel, a process that “may take several hours”.

Regular announcements emanate from a loudspeaker in the ceiling. A knock on the door at 6.50 a.m. informs me that it is time to spit into a plastic tube and hand it to a quarantine officer dressed in hazmat gear.

The A.I. app installed on my phone at the airport springs to life five times a day, making sure that I haven’t escaped and gone kayaking in the bay or bar-hopping in the funky Noge district. If I’m lucky, I may get a call from a real human being enquiring about my body temperature.

At one point, I managed to lock myself out late at night while depositing an empty bento box. With the elevators refusing to go all the way down to reception, I found myself wandering from empty floor to empty floor, like the hero of Haruki Murakami’s surreal Dance, Dance, Dance. Luckily, I bumped into a lone security guard who arranged a spare key for me.

I don’t want to pretend that all this constitutes some sort of cruel imposition. The quarantine staff at the hotel are unfailingly patient and helpful. The bentos are of convenience store quality, though the mostly fried and processed food would be greatly improved by a few beers to wash it down.

Plenty of carbs!

Plenty of carbs!

The same goes for the entry procedures at Haneda. The supplementary staff – mostly female, including many of non-Japanese origin – are doing a good job under pressure, but the system in which they operate is exceedingly slow and cumbersome.

Providing printouts of documents on smart phones proved especially challenging, given my rudimentary IT skills and a shaky performance by the airport wi-fi. There was also a problem with my saliva, which is apparently of poor quality and took an unusually long time to analyse.

When I finally stepped into the bus that would take me to the Apa Hotel, I experienced a hot wave of guilt. All the quarantine-bound travellers inside had been patiently waiting for me – including a Japanese woman in her early twenties who had come all the way from Texas with a one year old baby.

Altogether, it took four hours to get from touchdown in Haneda to the arrivals hall, with another hour of processing awaiting in the basement of the Apa Hotel.

 Quarantine officer at work

Quarantine officer at work

Needless to say, most other countries have imposed much harsher restrictions. Hong Kong mandates a three week hotel quarantine and, unlike Japan’s, you have to pay the bill yourself. In December, President Macron suddenly banned all British citizens from entering France.

Australia and New Zealand have been amongst the most draconian countries, preventing their own citizens from returning home for well over a year. If the Australian Open tennis tournament had taken place in Japan, Novak Djokovic would probably now be basking in the status of “GOAT” (“Greatest Of All Time”) instead of being unceremoniously thrown out of the country before having a chance to compete. Djokovic’s sin: to refuse vaccination.

Japan has taken a much less authoritarian view. At no point in the journey from north London to Yokohama was I asked to show my vaccination certificate.

Djokovic being expelled from Australia

Djokovic being expelled from Australia

In the global context, claims that Japan is reverting to sakoku (closing the country, as from 1639  to1854) are absurd, especially when some of the same voices were calling for the Tokyo Olympics to be cancelled just eight months ago.  Nor is Japan alone in hiking the severity of restrictions at a time when actual harm is declining. Many European countries have continued to tighten, although confirmed Covid deaths in the EU are running at half the level of this time last year. So far only Denmark has felt confident enough to return to the pre-Covid regulatory regime.

The peculiarity of Japan’s situation is that it is clearly one of the winners of the Covid era. Amongst the populous, highly developed countries, it has by far the lowest rate of confirmed Covid deaths and excess mortality, as calculated by the The Economist magazine’s machine learning system. This it has achieved without compulsory lockdowns, penalizing the unvaccinated and other illiberal measures that have been widely adopted elsewhere.

Japan’s common sense approach was working perfectly well, so why change it now? After all, it is generally recognized that the Omicron variant is highly infectious but very mild. Harsher entry procedures will accomplish nothing.

The answer, it seems, is politics. Specifically, former Prime Minister Suga saw his approval ratings tank to the extent that he had to resign after a mini-surge in Covid infections last summer. In reality, there was nothing wrong with Suga’s approach and the surge had disappeared by the time his successor took over. Nevertheless, the political lesson was clear. Looking tough and decisive played well with the public. Being pragmatic cost Suga dearly.

Suga quits after 12 months in office

Suga quits after 12 months in office

Judging from the recent Covid statistics, this highly disproportionate “water’s edge” policy has already failed, as was bound to happen. Obvious policy failure is rarely popular with the public, so political logic suggests a change too.

Given its stellar record in coping with previous, much more deadly strains, Japan should be a world leader in “living with Covid”, up there with Denmark. It still can be.

The night view from my window was stunning

One consolation: the night view from my window was stunning

Why has the World Gone Dotty Over Yayoi Kusama? Ask Mark Zuckerberg and Jay Powell!

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 29/01/2022 - 10:00am in

Published in Japan Forward 21/01/ 2022

It was thanks to Covid that I recently managed to view the Yayoi Kusama exhibition at the Tate Modern in London.

The event, which opened in the summer of 2021, had been fully booked until the closing date in March 2022.  With the Omicron variant ripping through the British population, persistent telephoning was finally rewarded. There had been a cancellation and a mid-afternoon slot was available.

A lucky break!

A lucky break!

I’m neither knowledgeable about contemporary art nor particularly enthusiastic. What fascinates me is the Kusama phenomenon itself. How did a ninety two year old woman who has been a virtual recluse in a Tokyo mental hospital since 1975 become “the world’s most popular artist”.

That accolade was bestowed on her by The Art Newspaper in 2014 – and rightly so. Her Infinite Obsession retrospective in South and Central America attracted an exhibition attendance of over two million people.

If anything, her stock has risen even higher since. In 2016, Time Magazine chose her as one of the 100 most influential people in the world, alongside Barack Obama, Usain Bolt and Caitlin Jenner.

On a freezing cold day in November 2017, five thousand New Yorkers lined up for several hours to enter two of her “Infinity Rooms” (mirrored spaces illuminated with various light sources). The time given each person to experience each box was thirty seconds. Likewise, the wait time was several hours for All the Eternal Love I Have For The Pumpkins, her 2016 exhibition in London.

At the Tate this January, probably thanks to Covid again, reservations have taken the place of queuing around the block. That is not to say I didn’t have to wait in line. About three quarters of my allotted one hour was spent waiting to be admitted to the glittery darkness of the Infinity Rooms, which are just about large enough to accommodate four people at a time.

Londoners did get a better deal than New Yorkers, though. We were allowed a full two minutes inside the rooms, which were titled Chandelier of Grief and Infinity Mirrored Room – Filled with the Brilliance of Life.

According to the Tate, these were “exemplary of Kusama’s practice as a persistent enquiry into the phenomenological potential of art.”

To my inexpert eye, the Infinity Mirrored Room looked more like a 1970s disco, while the other room was similar to a “hall of mirrors” attraction at a funfair. Indeed, some of my fellow viewers had  brought their young children who seemed to be having a great time. Literally everyone was taking selfies, including the kids.

Obligatory selfie

Where’s John Travolta?

In some exhibitions, snapping pictures is not allowed. Here it was encouraged. In fact, you could say it was the main point. Thinking deep metaphysical thoughts was out of the question, despite the cosmic message from Kusama inscribed on a gallery wall.

Our earth is only one polka dot among a million stars …when we obliterate nature and our bodies with polka dots, we become part of the unity of our environment.

I wasn’t the only one to be underwhelmed by the experience. Adrian Searle, art critic of The Guardian, wrote that the installation reminded him of his “cheapo garden fairy lights”.  Another critic from The Guardian, Jonathan Jones, described her work in harsher terms: “as fun as a fizzy drink and about as nourishing”.

And yet Kusama was a formidable presence in her New York heyday of the late fifties and sixties. That much was apparent from the photos and film footage also on display in the exhibition.

In those days, her main theme was sexuality. Multiple male organs constructed from clay or cloth adorned the various installations and objets she created.

Kusama smiling (unusual)

Kusama smiling

Like Yoko Ono, who appeared in New York avant garde circles at roughly the same time, she was a natural-born provocateur with an endless supply of chutzpah. She staged orgies and a gay wedding in her studio, stripped naked in anti-war demonstrations and painted the bodies of her friends with polka dots.

In an open letter to President Richard Nixon, she promised to “lovingly, soothingly adorn your hard masculine body” if he would only agree to “make this world a new Garden of Eden”.

Some of the conventional works were impressive too, particularly the large scale “Infinity Net” series of abstract paintings which she started in 1959.

Kusama the transgressional outsider was a lot more interesting than Kusama the global brand. Her outrageous “happenings” were more entertaining than her pretentiously titled Infinity Rooms; her phallus-encrusted boat from 1963 more memorable than the enormous polka-dotted pumpkins that have rolled off her production line in recent years.

Phallus boat "aggregation"

Phallus boat “aggregation”

At some stage, the art of the deal took over from the art of the heart.

Perhaps that was inevitable. Like Andy Warhol, Kusama never saw artworks as holy creations separate from ordinary reality. At the Venice Biennale in 1966, she exhibited an installation of mirror balls without being invited and then sold them off for two dollars a pop. “Why can’t I sell art like hotdogs or ice cream,” she declared. Now she sells packs of two souvenir mugs for £52 at the Tate and signs up to a collaboration with Louis Vuitton.

In the early years of this century, Kusama’s work was handled overseas by the Gagosian Gallery whose proprietor, Larry Gagosian, was described by Forbes magazine as “the P.T. Barnum of the art world.”  In 2013, she switched to the rival mega-gallery of David Zwirner. Between them, they have powered Kusama to extraordinary commercial success. In 2009, her works grossed $ 9.3 million at auction. In 2019, they grossed $98 million.

No amount of  “eternal love” could save this pumpkin from a 2021 typhoon

It is no coincidence that 2009 also marked the start of the era of unconventional monetary policy, by which central banks drove down interest rates to unprecedentedly low and even negative levels. Elevating asset prices was an explicit policy goal, successfully achieved as prime real estate, tech stocks, crypto currencies and collectables such as art took off for the stratosphere.

Put together the additional wealth that has accrued to the super-rich and the selfie-friendly appeal of Kusama’s recent productions and you have the background to her rise to superstar status. But you need something else too, an ability to satisfy a widespread yearning as transmitted by the herd mind of the internet.

Adrian Searle of The Guardian explains it like this – “Many people are hungry, I suppose, for some kind of transformative, mystical or even transcendental experience, and one that requires neither fasting nor drugs, let alone months or years of mental and physical preparation.”

In other words, it is secular religion. All you need to join the congregation is a cell phone and the willingness to stand in line for a few hours. The Deity of course never appears in person, as is usually the case with deities.

Kusama remains extremely prolific. “I want to paint 1,000 and 2,000 paintings,” she says. “I want to keep painting even after I die.” That is quite possible since her team of Japanese fabricators can create new product from her ideas and her dealers will certainly be happy to sell it.

Polka dotted tentacles...

Polka dotted tentacles…

On the day of my visit, the other galleries in the Tate were as silent as a morgue. On the way out, I asked one of the staff why Kusama was so uniquely popular. He answered with a laconic shrug and a single word. “Instagram.”

Meanwhile, the Infinity Mirror Rooms exhibition at the Tate Modern has been extended until June 12th 2022. For hardcore fans, there is an evening viewing that includes a £75 dinner.

Pumpkin pie is not on the menu.

Blue Kissa: Coffee, Jazz and Cultural Improvisation

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 15/01/2022 - 10:11am in

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articles, culture

Published in Nikkei Asia 5/1/2022

It’s a sunny Saturday afternoon, but it might as well be around midnight. I’m sitting in a basement room in the Yotsuya area of Tokyo, sipping strong black coffee and listening to an obscure 1986 album by tenor sax player Chico Freeman called The Pied Piper.

I know that because the LP cover is propped up in a place where I and all the other customers can see it – right in front of the booth housing the sound system.

Nobody’s talking. In fact, you’re not allowed to talk. You’re here to listen.

Entering Eagle

Entering Eagle

The establishment I’m patronizing is called Eagle, and it is one of Japan’s oldest jazz kissas, founded by the current proprietor, Masaharu Goto, in 1967. Kissa, or kissaten, means a coffee shop in Japanese, and a jazz kissa is a place where you go to drink coffee and listen to jazz.

Naturally, this being Japan, it’s not as simple as that. Starbucks and other chain operations like Doutor, its domestic rival, do not come into the kissa category. The word, which goes back 800 years, originally meant “sipping tea” and retains some echoes of Japan’s sophisticated tea tradition.

In her book Coffee Life in Japan, anthropologist Merry White compares a kissaten master to a sushi chef. “The coffee performer commands attention, demonstrates authority,” she writes. “Coffee making, like so many practices, is both art and craft in Japan, and the master behind the counter is producer, craftsman and artist all at once”.

So nothing like the chirpy barista who hands over your Frappuccino Grande.

Syphon coffee at a proper kissaten

Syphon coffee at a proper kissaten

Put together the “Way of Coffee” with the “Way of Jazz” and you have a distinctly Japanese cultural phenomenon. Both these emblems of the modern took off in Japan in the opening decades of the 20th century. White recounts how Paulista, a Japanese-Brazilian venture, became the world’s first international coffee chain by opening a café in Shanghai in 1911. Its domestic outlets were already wildly successful. At its peak, the Ginza outlet alone served 70,000 customers a month. It is still in business today.

The pioneer of Japanese jazz is usually considered to be the Hatano Orchestra, which was a fixture on cruise ships criss-crossing the Pacific from 1913. By the early 1920s, jazz was flourishing in the dancehalls of Osaka and Kobe, thanks to acts like Ichiro Ida and his Laughing Star Jazz Band.

Pre-war dancehall

Pre-war dancehall

Coffee and jazz came together with the founding of Blackbird, Japan’s first jazz kissa, in 1929. Situated close to Tokyo University, it played music by Duke Ellington, Louis Armstrong and other big names on an Electrola, an American phonograph that cost considerably more than a Ford automobile. It was the ideal venue for aficionados – mostly intellectuals and wealthy bohemians – to listen to the acknowledged masters of the new genre.

Jazz, the enemy’s music, was shut down during the war, though some resilient musicians added Asian touches and patriotic lyrics and kept on swinging. In the 1950s, jazz became immensely popular, with highly accomplished Japanese practitioners, such as Sadao Watanabe and Toshiko Akiyoshi, appearing on the scene.

Tours by leading American musicians, such as Art Blakey and The Jazz Messengers in 1961, fuelled the boom. Goto-san, the master of Eagle, became a dedicated jazz fan after being thunderstruck by a Roland Kirk gig in which the blind saxophonist played several instruments simultaneously.

Art Blakey in Japan 1960

Art Blakey in 1961

Economic factors made the 1960s the heyday of the jazz kissa. According to Katsumasa Kusunose, a jazz kissa devotee, an imported record cost 3,000 yen at a time when the monthly salary of an office worker was 20,000 yen. A cheaper option was to request one side of the latest Sonny Rollins LP at a jazz kissa for the price of a cup of coffee. Occasionally, fistfights would break out when conversations, or even the rustling of newspapers, disturbed the precious listening experience – hence the introduction of the “no chatting” rule.

My fellow listeners at Eagle today don’t look like they are about to start a punch-up. Middle-aged men and young women, some leafing through jazz magazines and books from the bookshelves, they are all hard-core fans of the music. These days, only about 3% of Japan’s 600 jazz kissas retain the “no chatting” rule, according to Kusunose-san, and even in Eagle it only applies to daytime “kissa” hours. In the evening the bar is open for business. Goto-san, also a noted jazz critic with 20 books to his name, hosts regular lectures on Saturdays.

I am enjoying the Chico Freeman album – later I find out that a second hand CD version costs $65 from Amazon marketplace – but is that because of the excellence of the musicians and the compositions or because of the quality of the sound?

For the other crucial element of any great jazz kissa is the equipment. At Eagle, sunk into the back wall are two enormous, studio-class JBL4344 loudspeakers. JBL is the trademark of a high-end audio company founded by inventor James Bullough Lansing. In the jazz kissa world, the name is as almost iconic as Miles Davis.

Goto-san spent a long time experimenting with his sound system. Some combinations of equipment suited hard bop music, but did not work well with the electro-funk of Weather Report or the slow, quiet style typical of Germany’s ECM jazz label. Eventually, he settled on his current set-up.

The results speak for themselves. The texture of the sound is extraordinary. You can hear the drummer’s softest brushstroke, every hiss of his cymbal. Listening to music in Eagle is a totally different experience from streaming Spotify on your mobile phone –  as different as dinner at Jiro’s famed sushi restaurant is from a Filet-O-Fish snack at McDonald’s.

As is the custom, the master will play one complete side of the record, then reverently lift it off the turntable and replace it with another, using his feel for music and the mood of his customers to make the selection.

Digging Dug

Digging Dug

Jazz kissas have moved with the times, quite literally. Dug, which was established in 1961, has relocated several times in and around the pulsing heart of Shinjuku. It is still owned by its legendary founder, Hozumi Nakadaira  – also a celebrated photographer who snapped, amongst many others, John Coltrane at the Newport Jazz Festival and Thelonious Monk wandering the backstreets of Tokyo.

In the evening, Dug becomes a bar offering 100 kinds of cocktail and 50 kinds of spirits to elevate the mood and improve the music. Haruki Murakami, who in his pre-fame days was the proprietor of a jazz kissa called Peter Cat, featured Dug in his breakthrough novel, Norwegian Wood.

The young Haruki Murakami at Peter Cat in 1979

The young Haruki Murakami at Peter Cat in 1979. The album is Grant Green’s “Green Street”.

According to a recent article in the British hipster magazine Far Out, “audiophile bars – or listening bars if you prefer – have their origin in Japan following the Second World War… in recent years, the concept has been adopted by industrious music heads all over the world, and today you can find audiophile bars everywhere from London to India.”

Amongst its top ten choices are venues in Naples, Sao Paolo and Goa. Several emphasize their Japanese provenance by serving sushi, sake and expensive Japanese whiskeys. Strictly speaking, this is totally inauthentic; their Japanese role models offer toasted sandwiches or pizza, like the one I ate at Eagle, and Western alcoholic drinks.

But the history of jazz and the much longer history of coffee consist of rule-breaking, experimenting, repurposing and remaking. In other words, the jazz kissa concept is itself in the process of being re-imagined and transformed in a global context. Long may such cultural improvisation flourish。

 

Five Shocking Scenarios for the Year of the Tiger

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 01/01/2022 - 6:50pm in

Published in Japan Forward 1/1/2022

Making predictions is a mug’s game. Who in 2019 would have forecast the state of the world as it is today?   Rather than try to guess what is most likely to happen next, we might benefit more from imagining possible futures that would have a significant impact on the world.

Here are five that that might be lying in wait for us, ready to pounce with a blood-curdling roar. They cover energy, finance, the pandemic, economics and geopolitics. Some are quite plausible. One is highly unlikely, but has the potential to turn our world upside down.

Tail risks should never be dismissed, especially when the tail concerned belongs to a tiger.

Tokyo Stock Market Bargain Sale:  Tesla Eats Honda, Apple Eats Sony

Back in the late 1980s, the Japanese stock market accounted for half of global market capitalization, while Japan’s share of global GDP was a mere 13%. Japanese companies went on a massive shopping spree which included the purchase of the Rockefeller Centre by Mitsubishi Real Estate and Columbia Pictures by Sony, the latter being the subject of a notorious cover picture on Newsweek magazine.

NewsweekCover

Now the positions are reversed. The US stock market accounts for 56% of world stock market capitalization, but only 21% of world GDP. So far mega takeovers of non-US companies have been few and far between, but there is little doubt that the Godzilla-scale market capitalization of the major US tech companies gives them every opportunity.

No doubt, the Japanese government would be disturbed by the prospect of one of its most prestigious companies being gobbled up by an America giant. However, given the geopolitical realities, which are that Japan needs the U.S. much more than the U.S. needs Japan, it would be hard to refuse.

tesla

What could Japan do before Godzilla stomps into in Tokyo Bay? There is one obvious solution – to take companies off the stock market altogether. In fact, this is likely to become an increasingly popular manoeuvre in many countries as managements seek to avoid the ever more stringent demands of ESG (Ethical, Social, Governance) oriented-investors.

If Japanese blue chip companies are bargains in the eyes of foreign managements, why don’t Japanese managements and financiers buy them up first?

Taiwan Emergency: Xi Gambles Big

Geopolitical risk has risen sharply with the rise of a much more assertive and technologically advanced China in the last decade. So far the leadership’s strategy has been to use deception and incremental moves to achieve its goals, as in the brilliantly executed appropriation of the South China Sea and the crackdown on Hong Kong. But in the case of Taiwan, a more drastic and confrontational approach would be necessary.

There are two reasons why the leadership might opt to move sooner rather than later. First, the United States is currently a bitterly divided nation and President Biden is preoccupied by domestic issues. Yet by the middle of the decade there could well be an anti-China alliance and trade bloc stretching from India to Japan, with the Japanese and Taiwanese economies increasingly integrated in the high-tech area.

The second reason is that the Chinese economy’s best days could well be behind it. There might even be Japan-style “lost decade” as real estate prices slump, the finances of regional governments crumble and the working population starts to shrink. History tells that authoritarian governments have sought to overcome economic doldrums by whipping up nationalist sentiments and engaging in aggression.

An invasion of Taiwan would be the largest seaborne operation since D-day. There would be many casualties, but China would certainly prevail without Western military intervention. No doubt, there would be boycotts, sanctions, condemnations in the United Nations, and probably a deep worldwide recession as supply chains collapsed.

The shock value would be equivalent to 9/11, indeed greater in its overall impact on the global balance of power. China would have succeeded in ousting the United States as a dominant actor in East Asia, just as the United States ended Japan’s supremacy by force of arms 75 years ago.

So the key question is what would the West do in the case of a move on Taiwan. Or, rather, what does the Chinese leadership believe the West would do.

The End of Japanification:  Double Digit Inflation

Japanification, shorthand for “becoming more like Japan”, is a concept that originated in the world of finance and economics. After Japan’s asset bubble burst in the early 1990s, economic growth slowed dramatically, deflation set in and interest rates slumped to levels far below what was considered normal elsewhere.

Domestic and foreign media latched onto social problems seemingly related to economic stagnation– young hikikomori recluses, parasite singles who stayed in the parental nest into their late twenties, a fertility rate far below what was needed for replacement. The nadir of such commentary was a 2013 BBC documentary, “No Sex, Please, We’re Japanese”, which claimed that the low birth rate was caused by lack of libido.

As time passed, it became clear that super low interest rates, weak growth and the related social pathologies were far from being exclusively Japanese. The same phenomena could be seen across the developed world.  As of 2019, many believed that worldwide “Japanification” was inevitable; that deflation was our destiny, thanks to structural forces such as demographics, the price transparency of internet shopping and the weak bargaining power of organized labour.

Then along came Covid and the conventional wisdom was turned upside down as inflation suddenly took off, reaching levels not seen since the 1970s in some countries. US consumer price inflation reached 6.8% in November 2021, with the UK equivalent at 5.1% and even inflation-phobic Germany at 5.2%.

Even in disinflationary Japan, there have been price hikes for theme park tickets, “gyudon” beef bowls, mayonnaise and materials like cement and steel. According to the Bank of Japan’s Tankan survey, the number of companies expecting to hike prices is at its highest level in 30 years.

A transient phenomenon, as Chairman of the Federal Reserve Jay Powell stated, or the shape of things to come? We don’t have a gold standard these days. We have a political standard. If inflation is perceived as a huge problem by the public, governments will tackle it. If other problems are perceived as much more serious – such as inequality, social fracture and climate change – they will leave inflation on the backburner.

And in the case of any future economic crisis – whether caused by an epidemic or a natural or manmade disaster – cash transfers of money created by the central bank to individuals and companies will be expected. The Covid era precedent cannot be undone.

If an inflation cycle is starting, it will last for years and only when the pain is widely felt will policymakers seek to crush it. In some countries, double digit price rises will have been registered by then.

For Japan, the good news would be that the Bank of Japan might finally hit its 2% inflation target!

Energy Crunch: Triple Digit Oil Price

The COP-26 climate conference in November was, predictably, a failure. The Paramount Leader of China, the world’s largest polluter, did not show up at all, being busy at home greenlighting record levels of coal production to cope with freezing conditions in northern areas. Prime Minister Narendra Modi of India, the world’s third largest polluter, did attend and made sure that in the final agreement the words “phasing out” of coal were changed to “phasing down”.

How could it be otherwise? As we reach the point when actions are expected, not just fine sentiments, the more likely that poorer countries in particular will back away from the rich country consensus. Even in the richer countries, some governments may get the jitters as the true cost of the green energy transition becomes increasingly clear to their electorates.

In his book “The New Map”, energy expert Daniel Yergin concludes that “oil will maintain its pre-eminent position as a global commodity, still the primary fuel that makes the world around.”  That is now a minority view, but what if he is right? America shale companies are producing much less than before due to bankruptcies and ESG restrictions on capital availability. For the Western oil majors, years of ESG-driven underinvestment in global capacity makes supply less responsive to price signals.

These are the factors that have driven the oil price up from the absurd “inverse bubble” of minus $37 dollars for a barrel in April 2020 to its current level. But what would happen in the eventuality of a full opening of the world economy, with planes packed with tourists criss-crossing the world and offices and factories buzzing with activity?

We could be heading for the outrageous “Peak Oil” price levels of 2008 in no time at all.

In Praise of Reality: The Tiger Roars in ‘22

We are living in an era of unprecedented change, or so we are told. Personally, I have my doubts. Trains represented dizzying change; for the first time in human history, people were able to travel faster than on the back of a horse. Planes were change. Travelling to the moon was change.

Electric cars, by contrast, have been around for half a century. The Facebook business model of free product in exchange for advertisements is not that different from how commercial TV works. Zoom calls are just a cheaper version of videoconferencing.

Hyping up present day phenomena in comparison to the past is so common that we hardly notice. Such is the case with Covid-19 too.

With the dominant variants declining in virulence, it is possible that 2022 is the year in which we finally learn to live with the disease and restrictions can be lifted. If so, to what extent will our world have changed permanently and to what extent will the “old normal” reassert itself?

Working from home is more convenient and saves commuting costs, but misses out the industry gossip, mentorship and camaraderie that binds an organization together. Remote learning takes away the tension and focus of being stuck in a classroom with your peers and a bad-tempered teacher. Remote conferences lack the one thing that makes conferences worthwhile: networking over drinks in the hotel bar. Remote tourism leaves out the crazed taxi-drivers, smell of the streets and failed attempts to speak the language that make the experience so memorable.

The Covid era has made all of us part-time versions of Japan’s “hikikomori” social recluses. No doubt, some people will have got used to a virtual existence and may choose to move into Mark Zuckerberg’s “metaverse” permanently. Others will want to make up for lost time and party louder and longer than ever before, newly conscious of the unprogrammable pleasure of interacting with real people in the way it has always been done.

That seems to be what happened 100 years ago when the Spanish Flu, a far worse plague on humanity than Covid finally fizzled out. Next up was the Roaring Twenties, a byword for hedonism, technological innovation, free-spirited women and artistic experimentation.

There’s no reason why it shouldn’t happen again. Let’s hope the Year of the Tiger can echo some of that that Jazz Age roar.

Onoda: The Man Who Fought Reality

Published by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 06/11/2021 - 9:51am in

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Published in Nikkei Asia 3/11/2021

It is Sunday night in a small market town in southwest France where the geese easily outnumber the human population. The cinema here has over 100 seats, but thanks to the pandemic only four are occupied. This tiny detachment of hard-core cinephiles seems totally appropriate for the film on view.

Directed and co-written by Arthur Harari, Onoda:10,000 Nights in the Jungle is a French film with dialogue in Japanese and a smattering of Tagalog.

It tells the true story of Hiroo Onoda, the Japanese soldier who continued fighting World War II until the mid-1970s. He laid down his weapons only when his long-retired commanding officer gave him a direct order to surrender. Initially with three comrades, then finally alone, Onoda had carried on patrolling the Philippine island of Lubang for nearly 30 years after the war ended.

Onoda in home-made camouflage gear. All photos courtesy of Le Pacte

Onoda in home-made camouflage gear. All photos courtesy of Le Pacte.

Onoda was no ordinary soldier. He had been trained at Futamata, an extension of the famous Nakano School for spies. There, he studied espionage, guerrilla warfare, sabotage, psychology and ethnology. Instead of automatically following military routine, Futamata graduates were expected to think freely for themselves. The “glorious death” of ritual suicide was ruled out; if captured they were required to use the opportunity to spread disinformation.

According to Bernard Cendron and Gérard Chenu, whose 1974 book was the source material for the film, Onoda’s instructor told him: “The fight may last many years, never give up, even if you have lost all your comrades, even if you have to eat roots.”

Receiving his orders at Futamata

Receiving his orders at Futamata.

That’s exactly what he did. Conserving his ammunition, moving from location to location in the island’s rugged and densely forested center, he prepared for the day when Japanese forces would retake the territory. In 1974, when asked what he would have done if not ordered to surrender, he replied that he was well-supplied and fit enough to last another 30 years. The fact that he lived until 2014 suggests he was probably right.

There was a dark side to his obsession. He and his tiny band of hold-outs terrorized the islanders — there was a native population of 14,000 — by burning their crops and “requisitioning” their belongings. An unknown number were killed, as were two of Onoda’s comrades. As far as he was concerned, these were the necessary costs of guerrilla tactics behind enemy lines. When he finally surrendered, he was astounded by the generous attitude of the Philippine people and the amnesty conferred by President Ferdinand Marcos.

Mourning a comrade shot to death

Mourning a comrade shot to death.

Onoda’s return to Japan was sensational. He went from being regarded as a relic of a bygone era to a media phenomenon. Crowds greeted him at Haneda Airport. Placards thanked him for his “long and loyal service to the emperor.” For the nationalist right, he was a reminder of traditional Japanese virtues which had been abandoned. For the radical left, he symbolized Japan’s imperialist aggression, now taking the form of commercial incursions into Southeast Asian markets.

The film is not concerned with such controversies, nor with Onoda’s subsequent life. The closing shot is of the helicopter taking him from a world where it is always 1944 to one he can barely imagine. Harari explains why the story attracted him: “Not because it was about war, ideology, Japan, extremism, but because it spoke to me intimately in its relationship to reality.”

Highly skilled in the techniques of survival, Onoda knew how to make shoes out of grass, brush his teeth with coconut shells and construct a waterproof hut out of branches and banana leaves in a day. His greatest talent, though, was for manufacturing his own reality and forcing events to conform with it. In essence, he was a mid-20th century Don Quixote.

Keeping well groomed

Keeping well groomed…

When his brother and sister come to the island to look for him, he watches from afar and wonders what cruelties the Americans have inflicted on them to make them cooperate. The Japanese newspapers dropped by helicopter are, he assumes, cunningly devised fakes. A photograph of his parents left by a search party couldn’t be authentic: they are standing in front of a large modern house. He has no idea that the old family home was bombed flat in the war.

Even when he requisitions a transistor radio from a village and learns about the bullet train and other technological marvels, his faith is not shaken. How could Japan have lost the war if it is now the world’s third economic power? Hadn’t the entire Japanese nation sworn to die gloriously rather than face defeat?

From what he hears on the radio, the European colonialists have been chased out of Asia, and now the Americans are being soundly beaten by the Vietnamese. Surely, Japan’s wartime “Co-prosperity Sphere” must be going from strength to strength!

Onoda devised a kind of alternate history reminiscent of Philip K. Dick’s novel The Man in the High Castle. In this world, Mao Zedong’s China and Japan have made a mutual support agreement. The White Russians in Siberia have rebelled against the Soviets and declared independence with Japanese support. Somehow it all fitted together.

Cendron and Chenu had the opportunity to interview Onoda in 1974. When they asked him if ever felt his mission was foolish or useless, he answered with a smile. “What is useful and what is useless? Do you think that someone who spends all his days in an office always doing the same work which he doesn’t enjoy — do you think he feels useful?”

Psychologists talk of cognitive dissonance and confirmation bias. History  shows that human beings are highly suggestible and malleable. Onoda’s world made sense to him when he arrived on Lubang, aged 22, and nothing much changed in the next three decades. We too patrol our tiny islands, choosing what to believe and disbelieve and calling the result reality, with online interactions reinforcing the process.

Ready to accept the surrender order from his long-retired senior officer

Ready to accept the surrender order from his long-retired senior officer.

Onoda’s story, as told by Harari, is not about one eccentric individual from the past, but about a feature of human nature that is very much with us today. It enables us to establish our identities but could also condemn us to perpetual conflict.

The film is almost three hours long, but the time passes quickly, as it did for Onoda, who was always busy. We leave the world of the cinema and enter a different kind of unreality where we must wear masks and show our passes sanitaires (health passes) to get a drink.

One of Onoda’s comments resounds in my mind: “There are some dreams from which it is better not to wake up.”Onoda poster

 

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